Ferrari 308 Clutch Replacement

Remove driver's side rear wheel.

Remove inner fender well.

Remove oil cooler brackets and cool air pipe and move the oil cooler out of the way.

Drain gear oil from transfer case.

Remove the ten nuts and washers that hold the transfer case cover. Remove the transfer case cover.

Use the Special Socket to remove the nut from the lowest gear. Place a rag in the gears to stop them from rotating. After you break the nut loose, remove the rag by turning the engine slightly in the opposite direction. The threads on the nut are normal, right-hand threads. Expect to apply about 180 newton-meters of counter-clockwise force on this nut to remove it.

Remove the middle gear. It lifts straight out. Clean it a mark it with tape to remember which side faces out.

Remove the lower gear. You may need a thin-wall gear puller, if you can't remove it with your hand.

After the gear is removed, use your Snap-ring Pliers to remove the snap-ring.

Remove the bearing and cutout ring. If you can't get the bearing out at this point, leave it, as it will come out with the bell housing.

Remove the clutch cable and as much hardware as you can at the clutch lever.

Remove the bell housing. The actually are some pretty good places that you can get a good grip with your hands. I have read that sometimes the nut and bolt of the upper A arm need to be removed to allow the housing to slide past, but I left them on and had no problems.

Remove the pressure plate and clutch plate.

Mark where the flywheel goes on the crank shaft if you are going to remove it. Only remove the flywheel if you plan to have it resurfaced, or if you plan to replace the small bearing and seal behind it. If you do have it resurfaced, be careful that the machine shop doesn't remove too much, as the timing marks would become difficult to read.

Install a new seal behind the flywheel.

Install the new bearing that secures the clutch shaft.

Install the flywheel. Torque the flywheel bolts to 85 newton-meters. A Ferrari mechanic recommended using lock-tight on these bolts. The flywheel has slightly offset holes that fit into slightly offset holes in the crankshaft. All bolts must fit passively before tightening.

Install the new pressure plate and clutch plate. Notice that the clutch plate has a flywheel side and a throw-out bearing side. An alignment tool is useful, but not required. A Ferrari mechanic told me to simply align the disk by sight. Tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly as you hold the alignment tool and clutch plate is place. Torque the pressure plate bolts to 18 foot-pounds.

Clean the bell housing. Do not use an air line or brush. Friction material dust is dangerous to inhale. Wipe off with a clean damp rag or use a suitable vacuum cleaner.

The old throw-out bearing had a sleeve that I could not get off by myself. The local parts store/machine shop moved the sleeve to the new bearing and charged me $15.

Install the new throw-out bearing on the shaft. The internal annular groove should be filled with a high melting point grease. Also, lightly apply the grease to the release fork pivot points and the release bearing guide tube.

Clean the gasket surfaces on the bell housing and on the adjacent surface on the car.

Install the three new O-rings on the bell housing or the adjacent surface (wherever they fit the best). You may use silicone glue to attach the O-rings to the surfaces.

Install the bell housing. I used a very small amout of the silicon glue on the mating surfaces to maintain a tight seal.

Tighten the bell housing bolts evenly to press the shaft info the pilot bearing. Torque the large nuts to 55 newton-meters and the small nuts to 18 foot-pounds.

Place the special cutout ring over the gearbox input shaft and over the lock ring on the gearbox input shaft. The cutout portion of this ring fits over the lockring so that the back of the special ring is flush with the back of the lockring.

Install the lower bearing into the bearing race of the bell housing.

Install the outer snap ring with the snap-ring pliers.

Place the lower gear on to the gear box input shaft with the tale side (the long side) of the gear toward the engine.

Place the middle gear and the associated bearings into the bell housing.

Install the locking ring nut on the gear box input shaft to secure the lower gear.

Place a rag into the gears to stop them from turning while you torque the nut. Torque the locking ring nut to 180 newton-meters.  

Pinch the locknut's outer crush zone into the shaft detents to lock it in place. I used a dull chisel and a hammer.

Remove the rag from the gears by turning the motor in the correct direction at the crankshaft snout.

Replace the transfer case cover. Use a small amount of the Silicone Glue on the mating surfaces. Torque the nuts to 18 foot-pounds.

Fill the transfer case with .17 pints (approximately 1/3 of a cup) of gear oil.

Install the clutch cable to the lever. For the initial clutch adjustment, I put a bar under the clutch pedal in the car to hold the clutch pedal up where I wanted it, and then I tightened the cable under the bell housing until there was no slack.

Install the cold air pipe for the oil cooler.

Secure the oil cooler to the brackets.

Install the inner fender well.

Install the wheel.

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