Gearbox/Transfer Case Gear Oil Change
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Warm up the car by driving it for at least 15 minutes.
Raise the car, preferably to a level position.
Remove driver's side rear wheel.
Remove inner fender well.
Use a 12mm hex socket or wrench to remove the transfer case fill plug. Always break the fill plugs free first, because if for some reason you can't break them free, you can still drive the car to a shop.
Use a 12mm hex socket or wrench to remove the gearbox fill plug. You can get to it from underneath the car from the back.
Place an oil pan (that will hold at least five quarts) underneath the transfer case drain plug.
Remove the transfer case drain plug. About a cup of gear oil will drain.
Clean and reinstall the transfer case drain plug.
Move the oil pan underneath the gearbox drain plug. As you will see from the back of the car, there are two drain plugs visible. The 12mm drain plug closer to the front the car is the engine oil drain. The 10mm gearbox drain plug is the one closer to the rear of the car.
Use a 10mm hex socket or wrench to remove the gearbox drain plug.
About four quarts of gear oil will drain. Clean and reinstall the gearbox drain plug.
Method described in book:
Pump the new gear oil into the gearbox top plug. When the oil starts to flow back out of the fill hole, then you have added enough. Install the gearbox top plug.
Add .17 pints (approximately 1/3 of a cup) of the new gear oil to the transfer case fill hole. Install the transfer case fill hole plug.
Preferred method recommended by an excellent Ferrari Technician:
Slowly fill the new gear oil into the transfer case fill port until oil drips out of the gearbox fill port. There is a pathway from one to the other and the net effect is the self-leveling of the fluid in both. Install both fill plugs.
(Note: The pan of the floor jack is on the frame rail next to the engine and not on the oil pan or the transmission pan.)
Install the inner fender well.
Install the wheel.
Lower the car.
Special thanks to Ric Rainbolt
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